Self Install Home Security
Planning the Layout
The most important step when installing your own alarm system is to think about
the layout and plan correctly. It is recommended that a floor plan layout of your
property is drawn. This will help you decide what areas to cover and where to position
devices for the alarm system. Pay attention to entry points such as doors, windows
and vulnerable parts of your property. By studying this information you can decide
what type of sensors of required (e.g. magnetic, PIR) and what type of alarm panel
is needed together with how many zones are needed.
It is worth choosing an alarm control panel with extra zones to allow for expansion
in the future. Think about the best position for you control panel. Your system
may have a keypad or be remote controlled. You will want to position the panel near
to your usual entry/exit door in your property. Decide how and where to mount the
sensors and the easiest and neatest way to run the cables back to the control panel.
Consider where to install the siren/alarm box – do you want it to be visible externally?
It could be wise to make it visible as this could put off potential burglars. The
siren should be placed high enough on the building to be out of easy reach.
Do you want the control panel on display? You may consider installing an additional,
smaller, neater looking keypad on view and hide the large control panel out of sight.
Now is also an opportunity to consider fitting smoke detectors that can be wired
into you control panel.
Running Cables and Mounting the Sensors
When drilling holes through the joists and walls, you will need to think about how
many cables will be running through the hole so make sure the diameter is big enough.
Keep cable runs well away from mains cabling and plumbing. Do not use existing holes
that have mains cabling running through them. Only mount the control panel, siren,
additional keypad and sensors after all cables are laid and are in place.
When running the cables to each sensor position, leave a few feet spare to allow
for final positioning, stripping and terminating – just in case there are any problems.
Any slack can often be pushed back into the ceiling.
Use 6 or 8 core alarm cable in a continuous run from each sensor to the control
panel leaving plenty of slack at each end. Try to hide the cables out of sight as
much as possible, e.g. under floorboards or under skirting boards.
Most PIR sensors require 6 wires. Two for power (12V plus and minus), two for the
alarm loop and two for the 24 hour tamper loop.
As magnetic door switches don’t need power, they usually need 4 wires. Two for the
alarm loop and two for the 24 hour tamper loop. Nonetheless, it’s still worth using
a higher core cable that is required. You never know when you may want the extra
wires for something in the future.
For the siren there are usually six wires. Two for power (12V plus and minus), one
for the siren trigger, one for the strobe trigger and two for the 24 hour tamper
loop.
The remote keypads wiring can vary from 3 to 10 wires depending on the make/model
of the system.
Fit shock sensors to any area in your property that can be accessed through forced
entry such as door or window frame. Door contacts can only detect a window or door
being opened so if you think a thief make force any entry through kicking a panel
out of a door or breaking a window then it may be worth fitting shock sensors instead
of door contacts to the area.
Door contacts are usually fitted to all external doors but may be fitted to any
vulnerable door or window as required.